The surfing – the waves in Indonesia are amazing.

To catch a wave, to stand up – it was just life-changing. There was nothing that even came close. I quit playing all other sports – by the time I was eleven, they were toast.

I’ve always been a big supporter of the Surfrider Foundation. I started my own foundation, Rob Machado Foundation, which focuses on environmental education for the little people of the world.

We dream of the perfect wave, the perfect job, the perfect house. When we get there, we dream of something else,

I've been very lucky, getting to travel the world with professional photographers. I'd grab their equipment, get a few lessons, and start firing shots.

I've never actually even contemplated writing a book or having a book.

At any given time, there are a lot of million-dollar luxury charter boats cruising around the Mentawai Islands finding the most incredible waves. And yet the people on shore are suffering. The whole scene is wrong. As a surf community, we have to do something.

I've always been a big supporter of the Surfrider Foundation. I started my own foundation, Rob Machado Foundation, which focuses on environmental education for the little people of the world.

You'd be surprised how cold you get in the water, especially surfing a place like Pipeline. If the tradewinds are blowing, it gets chilly and sometimes you don't catch a wave for an hour.

One meal I'm constantly reminded about is when I ate kangaroo tail in the desert in Australia; it wasn't necessarily my favorite, but I will always remember it.